Traditional Indian
sarees have always been the fine examples of great workmanship of
handloom weavers. It doesn't matter whether these weavers belong to north,
south, east or west parts of India, they make fabulous saree designs with
the help of fabric and other raw materials found in their respective
regions. This is perhaps the reason why most of the handloom sarees are
named after the place of their origin- the place where they are
traditionally made.
However, there are many other types of handloom sari
that are not woven but then also they fall in this category due to the
expert work of hands in their making such as
bandhani sarees that are
made with the help of tie and die technique. Here is an account of the most
famous handloom sarees of India. These sarees are basically hand woven
sarees.
A Banarasi sari- the most popular among the
sarees of north India-
is the most traditional bridal dress for any Indian bride. They are made in
the holy city of Benaras in Uttar Pradesh. A Banarasi sari is made of finely
woven silk and are decorated with intricate designs which make them
relatively heavy when compared to other handloom saris. Mostly gold and
sometimes silver brocade work on the fine
silk sarees with lavish
embroidery make them an ethnic wear. The Mughal inspired saree designs
include intricate intertwining floral and foliate motifs. Upright leaves
called jhallar at the outer, edge of border is an important characteristic
of these sarees.
Chanderi is a historical town of Madhya Pradesh state in India. It is a
renowned center for the famous hand-woven Chanderi sarees. The light weight
Chanderi sari has a sheer texture and glossy transparency. These
cotton sarees are best as
summer wear. Motifs woven on them are mostly inspired from nature like
birds, trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly bodies.
The
hand woven
sarees of
west India (Paithan town in Aurangabad district of Maharashtra state)
are known as Paithani sarees. They are made from very fine silk. The unique
feature of these sarees are the borders having an oblique square design, and
a pallu with a peacock design. Sometimes plain as well as spotted designs
are also made on these sarees. Many varieties of Paithani sarees are popular
which include from single colored to multi colored designs. The multicolored
Paithani sarees are made by using one color thread for weaving lengthwise
and another for weaving widthwise.
Patola sarees are made in the Patan District of Gujarat state. The patola
saree is one of the finest hand-woven sarees that are made in India today.
The extremely delicate patterns of Patola saree are woven with great
precision and clarity. The symmetrical designs having geomatrical
orientation sometimes take about 4 to 6 months to be completed.
The most famous
sarees of south India,
the Kanjeevaram sarees are made in the temple town Kanchipuram of Tamil
Nadu. This town is also known as 'Silk City' due to its main profession of
weaving silk sarees. The traditional kanjivaram sarees have a richly worked
upon pallu and border in golden thread with lighter designs in the inner
body of the saree. The matching
blouse
woven in the same manner as the saree is, gives this saree a royal look.
Gadwal is a city in Mahbubnagar district of Andhra Pradesh. The handloom
jari sarees made here are famous world wide as Gadwal sarees. These sarees
are liked for their attractive cotton field with heavy silk border and
pallu. Both the fabrics are joined in a complicated way but this silk/cotton
mix gives this sari its charm.
Mysore,
the second-largest city of Karnataka is famous for its Mysore silk saree. In
fact, Mysore Silk is a trademark for the silk sarees manufactured by
Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation (KSIC). The unique characteristic of
this saree is the usage of pure silk and hundred percent pure gold zari,
which is a golden color thread having 65% of silver and 0.65% of gold. These
sarees are manufactured on the modern looms in a silk factory located in
Mysore city. Every Mysore silk saree has an embroidered code number and a
hologram to prevent its misuse. Innovations are being done in these sarees
by introducing kasuti embroidery, thickly woven pallus, bandhini techniques
and non traditional colors in the sarees.
Yet another great hand woven saree from South India is the Chettinad sari
manufactured in the Chettinad region of the Sivaganga district of Tamil Nadu
state. It is a cotton sari which has unique dramatic and spontaneous colored
patterns with bold checks, stripes and contrasting hues.
One of the finest handloom sarees of Bangladesh which is also made in West
Bengal- the Jamdani sarees have colored stripes and patterns. Jamdani is a
woven fabric in cotton, and it is one of the finest varieties of muslin. It
is traditionally woven around Dhaka region of Bangladesh and created on the
loom brocade with rich motifs. Not only sarees, Jamdani is also used for
scarves and handkerchiefs. The patterns are mostly geometric, plant, and
floral designs.
There are many
sarees of east India
and Sambalpuri sarees are one of the most famous among them. They are made
in the Sambalpur and Dakhin Kosal region of Western Orissa. They are typical
Ikkat sarees wherein the warp and the weft are tie-dyed before weaving.
Sambalpuri sarees are famous for their traditional motifs, like shankha
(shell), chakra (wheel), phulla (flower) etc. However, the art of focus here
is the traditional craftsmanship of the 'Bandhakala', the tie-dye art
represented in their intricate weaves. There are many varieties of
Sambalpuri sari that include Sonepuri, Pasapali,
Bomkai, Barpali, and Bapta
saris.
The
Baluchari sarees are are made in the town of Baluchar in Murshidabad
district. They have a silk base with silk brocaded designs. The color scheme
of these sarees are unique in the sense that each pattern is made in a color
which is in harmony with the ground of the saree. The most popular colors
used are red, blue, yellow, green and scarlet. These sarees mostly have
large floral motifs interspersed with flowering shrubs. Baluchari sarees are
also made in the Bankura District of West Bengal. Here the tussar silk is
used for making these sarees. They have unique designs on them that are
woven on unusual punch-card looms. These designs include episodes from the
Mahabharata woven into the border and pallu.
The
sarees of north east region of India, mainly of Assam, are made from three
different types of silk- Muga, Eri and Pat silk. They are collectively known
as Assam silk. Muga sarees are made from Muga silk which has a typical
golden hue. Traditionally, these silks were used to make the traditional
dress of Assam called riha and mekhela chador- the three-piece silk saris
woven with traditional motifs.
Kota doria sarees are made in Kota district of Rajasthan state. These sarees
are made of pure cotton and Silk fabric. Although, these sarees are famous
by the name of kota sarees, they were originally woven in Mysore and were
known as Masuria sarees. The weavers from Mysore were taken to Kota in the
late 17th and early 18th century and these saris started to be known as
'Kota-Masuria'. Kota sarees are popularly known as 'Masuria' in Kota and
Kota doria outside the state. These sarees give the looks that is similar to
fine net. It seems that the threads or 'doria' are woven at right angles to
make a net like structure.