Kota sarees for women are one of the most well-known elegant sarees of
Northern India. Also known as Kota Doria Saris, these sarees are named after
being produced in a small town called Kota in Rajasthan. These sarees are
ideal for Indian summers.
Fabric in Kota Sarees
Kota sarees are made of Kota fabric, which
was referred as Masuria Malmal earlier as they were woven in Mysore. Later,
the weavers were brought to Kota in Rajasthan, and the saris were woven by
the name of "Kota-Masuria" or "Kota Doria" where doria
is the thread used and kota fabric is a combination of cotton and silk
fabric. This kind of fabric has a super transparent yet stable weave of
cotton and silk threads, that produce square check patterns in fabric. These
checks are popularly known as "KHAT". Handloom Kota Doria sarees
in pure cotton are one of the most sought after items for Indian women
during summers. Nowadays, Kota saris in polyester fabric is also gaining
popularity. There are also many varieties of machine loomed Kota fabric,
which is also soft cloth with an airy feel that picks up the slightest
breeze.
Kota Saree
Designs and Motifs in Kota Sarees
Kota saris have a special style
which uses a combination of cotton and silk threads to create an almost
graph like pattern called khats where cotton lends firmness and silk gives
airy soft feel. This is called "Kota Doria" weave or the the
chequered weave and this is the typical design found in almost all Indian
kota saris. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is its unique characteristic.
Besides the chequered pattern, there are other weaves in complicated designs
in a combination of silk and cotton. Some of the weaves also have a narrow
border edged with Zari. In the case of sarees with designs, the threads are
dyed prior to weaving. The sarees have designs that vary from the
traditional jal, checks, jacquard and jamawar pallus to a Chantilly
lace-effect and intricate borders of gold and silver thread work. There are
three main types of Kota sarees: Plain, Printed and Zari. Here, the plain
kota sarees are made of pure cotton with having the typical checks patterns,
the printed Kota saris have elaborate prints and patterns on the chequered
base of the saree while the Zari Kota sarees have borders embellished with
sequence and zari work and can be worn in formal occasions.
Because of the transparent look and feel, the kota saris are mostly worn
during the summers to get relief from the extreme summer heat. The designs
on these sarees also give a weightless feel.
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